Fortrose lies between Avoch and Rosemarkie on the A832, on the southern coast of the Black Isle. Many of its buildings are ornate Victorian, evidence of a period of rapid expansion, but others speak of a much older history.
Fortrose Cathedral
Just to the seaward side of the High Street is Fortrose Cathedral, begun in the 13th century. Though only a fraction of the original building still stands, it is an impressive sight: red sandstone, with a spire at one end, standing within four walls surrounded by mossy lawns. There is a large free parking area around the walls. The cathedral square has hosted St Boniface’s Fair, a mediaeval fair where participants dress in costume, with craft and produce stalls, jugglers and tumblers, and traditional music. Near the cathedral is the town hall.
The town
Fortrose is the academy town for most of the Black Isle, and most of the peninsula’s secondary pupils go there. The old school building has been added to over the years, but the older part is easily picked out and is very attractive. Behind the school, a grassed walkway called Greengates takes you on a gentle walk through fields towards Chanonry Point. The Black Isle Leisure Centre is by the school.
Hidden from most of the town, and reached only by narrow, twisting roads, is a very pretty harbour and a peaceful, secluded beach. The harbour is now largely given over to leisure, with a yacht club.
At the eastern end of the High Street, just beyond the Church of Scotland church with its unusual spire, the hill road to Raddery climbs steeply through farmland and woodland to spectacular views, then winds down the other side to come out beyond Rosemarkie at the top of the Fairy Glen.
Chanonry Point
Shared with Rosemarkie, Chanonry Golf Club lies on a V-shaped promontory that juts sharply into the sea. Golf has been played here for centuries. Two stone ice-houses on the course are remnants of the once-thriving salmon fishery, and on the links a memorial marks the spot where the Brahan Seer, a local prophet, was burnt to death in a tar barrel in the 17th century.
The Point is famous for the Moray Firth’s bottlenose dolphins, which often feed and play in the shallows offshore. From April to August, the best chance is from low tide onwards, as the dolphins come in on the rising tide to hunt salmon and sea trout. From September to March sightings are rarer and follow no tidal pattern. Grey and common seals and harbour porpoises can be seen all year.
Parking at the Point is very limited, so please walk or cycle the mile out from Fortrose or Rosemarkie. The water is not safe for swimming, with dangerous and sometimes hidden currents, so keep a close eye on children and dogs. Drones are not permitted, and it is an offence to disturb or harass dolphins and seals; report anyone doing so to the police on 101.